The Amalfi Coast the Italians kept for themselves.
There is an Amalfi Coast that everyone knows. Positano's stacked pastel houses on every Instagram grid, Capri's Blue Grotto, large walking tour groups. And then there is Nerano — a fishing village at the tip of the Sorrento Peninsula where none of that exists, where the water is extraordinary and the pace is entirely its own, and where Italian locals have been spending their summers for generations. We spent a week there. We can’t wait to go back.
The Village
The first thing you notice is the quiet of a place that hasn't been optimised for tourism. Plastic chairs face the water. Cats move across warm stone. Faces at family-run restaurants begin to recognise you, the warmth of being treated like a guest in their house. It takes most places years to make you feel that way. Nerano does it in a week.
Nerano sits on the small, sheltered bay of Marina del Cantone. This is one of the best Amalfi Coast beaches not because it has a famous name or a beach club with a waiting list, but because it is clean and clear and largely left alone. The kind of bay where you swim out too far and don't mind. The village itself is tiny — a handful of restaurants, a small port, accommodation in the buildings above the waterline.
This is still a working fishing village. The boats go out, the catch comes in, and the restaurants cook what they have. It is entirely possible to spend a week here and never feel the need to leave, which is precisely what happened to us.
WHERE TO STAY
Skip the hotels. Airbnb is the right answer in Nerano, and specifically: look for something close to the marina and the main port. We found the perfect spot directly above the water, with direct beach access via a flight of stairs. Mornings meant being in the sea before the day had properly started. There is no better Amalfi Coast beach experience than this.
WHERE TO EAT & WHAT TO DO
Ristorante FRAMAR
Our anchor within twenty-four hours of arriving. Every morning, without discussion, we ended up at the plastic chairs set directly on the edge of the water — espresso, cornetto, the sound of summer. Framar is also open for lunch, and here is the move: eat well, then take a sun lounger and do absolutely nothing for the rest of the afternoon. One of the great pleasures of a week on the Amalfi Coast is learning to let lunch be the whole day.
LA SIRENUSE MARE
One of this summer's most anticipated openings. Le Sirenuse Mare is the new beach club from the iconic Le Sirenuse Positano, one of the most storied hotels on the Amalfi Coast, and it brings that same sense of effortless Italian refinement directly to the water in Nerano. The result is something that feels both fresh and completely timeless.
Book lunch, take in the scene. It's chic without trying, excellent for people watching, and the kind of place where the afternoon slips away without you noticing. What we loved most was Rosie's Bar downstairs, overlooking the jetty — order from the bar menu, take a swim with the striped floaties, and let the afternoon set its own pace.
LO SCOGLIO
Book a table for lunch. Request to be seated near the window looking out over the water. Order the fish alongside the pasta, and don't rush. This is the restaurant that put Nerano on the map. After lunch move down to the beach chairs with a bottle of wine. The butter-yellow Lo Scoglio umbrellas dotting the shoreline are iconic. You'll recognise them from Pinterest the moment you arrive.
CONCA DEL SOGNO
Take a boat transfer around the headland to this remarkable cove. Book sun loungers and a table for late lunch — but be warned, it gets loud as the afternoon builds. If you want something more relaxed, go earlier and enjoy the public beach below. Either way, the water is among the best on the entire Amalfi Coast: crystalline and calm.
MARIA GRAZIA
For dinner — and for history. Maria Grazia is widely credited as the birthplace of spaghetti alla Nerano, the dish that put this small village on every serious foodie's itinerary. Courgettes, basil, provolone del monaco cheese, a combination so simple and delicious. Order the pomodoro pasta, tomato arugula salad, and a large glass of whatever they recommend. I will be dreaming of this meal for the rest of summer.
What to Pack
Packing for the Amalfi Coast is all about effortless pieces you’ll wear from morning swims to long seaside lunches and sunset aperitivos. Think timeless swimwear, relaxed linen, leather sandals and a few elevated accessories that make every look feel considered.
Our Solaire collection was made for exactly this kind of escape. From timeless halter bikini tops and statement prints to elevated accessories like the Opus Handheld Fan, every piece is designed for long European summers. Discover some of our favourites below, or shop the full Solaire collection to create your perfect Amalfi Coast capsule wardrobe.
Discover some of our favourites below, or shop the full Solaire collection to build the perfect capsule wardrobe for your Amalfi Coast getaway.
